How to Pack Fragile Items for Shipping: A Step by Step Checklist

Breakages are one of the few costs in a small business that are entirely avoidable. A cracked mug or a chipped ceramic planter costs you the stock, the freight both ways, the replacement freight and, quite often, the customer. Almost every broken parcel we hear about comes down to the same handful of causes: a box that was too big, cushioning that was too thin, or an item that was touching the wall of the carton when it left the bench. Get those three things right and the rest is detail. Most of the fix lives in one aisle, and for fragile goods that aisle is bubble wrap.

Below is the method we see working in real warehouses and retail back rooms: how to choose a carton, how much cushioning an item needs, the order to wrap things in, and the mistakes behind most claims. Pair it with the right void fill so your packers are not making judgement calls on every order.

Start with the box, not the cushioning

The carton does most of the protective work. Parcels are not gently placed, they are dropped, stacked, conveyed and sometimes thrown, and a box that flexes will pass that shock straight through to the contents no matter how much wrap is inside.

Pick a carton that leaves roughly 5cm of clear space on every side of the item, including the top and bottom. That gap is what the cushioning fills. Less than that and your protection is too thin to absorb a drop. Much more than that and the item can build up momentum inside the box before it hits anything.

Use a new or near new carton for anything genuinely fragile. Corrugated board loses stacking strength each time it is used. For heavier items, double wall board is worth the extra cost, and always seal the bottom seam properly before you load it.

How much cushioning does a fragile item need?

There is no single answer, but there is a reliable rule of thumb. The heavier and denser the item, the more cushioning depth you need, because the material has to decelerate more mass over the same short distance.

Light and small (under 1kg). Candles, cosmetics, small glassware. One or two wraps of 10mm bubble is usually enough, or a pre made bubble bag. Fill the remaining space so nothing shifts.

Medium weight (1kg to 5kg). Ceramics, framed prints, bottles, electronics. Two to three wraps of 10mm bubble, or a single wrap of 20mm, plus a firm layer of void fill underneath and on top.

Heavy or irregular (over 5kg). Appliances, large vases, machine parts. Use 20mm bubble for the initial wrap and build a floor of cushioning in the base of the carton so the item is not sitting on the board.

Bubble size matters more than people expect. The 10mm bubble gives you a finer, more even cushion and wraps neatly around detailed shapes, which makes it the better all rounder for retail goods. The 20mm bubble traps a larger air volume per layer, so it handles bigger drops and heavier items with fewer wraps. Plenty of businesses keep both on the bench: 10mm for the day to day, 20mm for the awkward jobs. Our guide to bubble wrap sizes and bubble types goes through the widths and specialty films in more detail.

One practical note on freight. Some bubble wrap in our range is currently restricted to South East Queensland delivery because of the volume it takes up on a truck. Check the delivery information on the individual product page before you order, or call the team on 1800 555 343 and we will tell you what can reach your postcode.

Shop the essentials for fragile packing

The step by step method

1. Wrap the item itself

Lay the bubble wrap bubble side in, against the item. The flat film then faces outward and slides against the carton rather than catching on it, and the bubbles sit where they can compress. Wrap in full overlapping turns rather than tight spirals, and secure with a strip of tape rather than winding tape around and around, which can create hard pressure points.

For anything with a finish that marks easily, glassware, polished timber, silverware, put a layer of tissue paper against the surface first, then bubble over the top. It costs cents and it stops the faint bubble pattern that can show up on soft finishes after a long trip.

2. Protect corners, handles and spouts

Damage almost always starts at the point that sticks out. Handles, lids, spouts, picture frame corners and feet all take the first hit. Build up extra bubble on those points until they are the thickest part of the parcel, not the thinnest.

3. Wrap parts separately

Lids, stoppers, removable shelves and loose components should each be wrapped on their own and then packed so they cannot knock against the main item. A ceramic teapot and its lid packed together as one unit will chip itself.

4. Build a cushioned base

Put a layer of void fill, scrunched kraft paper or bubble in the bottom of the carton before the item goes in. The item should never sit on the board. If you are weighing up which fill to standardise on, we compared the options in void fill options compared.

5. Centre the item and fill every gap

Place the wrapped item in the middle and fill the space around it until it is firmly held. Then add a top layer so the contents press slightly against the lid when you close it. Close the box and give it a gentle shake. If you hear or feel movement, open it and add more. That shake test catches more problems than any other single habit.

6. Seal and label properly

Use a quality packaging tape and apply the H taping method: one strip along the centre seam, then one across each of the two end seams. Cheap tape that lets go in a hot truck is a false economy, and the difference across a year of parcels is small. The right gear from our tape and dispensers range makes this faster and more consistent than tearing tape by hand.

Mark the carton as fragile on at least two sides. Be realistic about what that achieves. Fragile labelling is a prompt for handlers, not a guarantee, and most carriers will assess a damage claim on whether the packaging was adequate rather than on whether a sticker was present. Check your carrier's terms, since coverage for fragile goods varies and some categories are excluded outright.

Packing specific fragile items

Glassware and bottles. Wrap each piece individually, never let two glass surfaces touch, and use dividers or a generous layer of fill between them. Bottles should stand upright where possible.

Ceramics and pottery. Support the inside as well as the outside. Loosely fill the cavity of a vase, bowl or mug with paper so the walls are braced.

Framed art and mirrors. Tape a large X across the glass so that if it does break the shards hold together, add corner protection, then wrap the whole piece. Ship flat only if you can guarantee nothing will be stacked on top, otherwise ship on edge.

Electronics. The original moulded packaging is genuinely the best option if you still have it. If not, wrap in bubble and keep the item well away from every wall of the carton.

Small flat items. For jewellery, phone cases, small accessories and similar, a padded or bubble lined satchel from our mailing bags range is often more practical than a carton, and it keeps your cubic weight down. For non fragile goods on the same order, standard courier satchels do the job.

Five mistakes that cause most breakages

1. The box is too big. More empty space means more room for the item to accelerate before it hits something.
2. The box is too small. Cushioning that is compressed flat has nothing left to give.
3. Reusing tired cartons for heavy goods. Second and third use board has lost strength you cannot see.
4. Skipping the shake test. Two seconds of checking prevents a large share of claims.
5. Relying on the fragile sticker. Treat it as a courtesy, and let the packing do the actual work.

Frequently asked questions

Which side of bubble wrap faces the item?

Bubbles face in, towards the item. The flat side faces out. This puts the compressible air pockets where they can do their job and gives you a smooth outer surface that slides rather than snags.

Is 10mm or 20mm bubble wrap better for fragile items?

The 10mm bubble suits most retail and ecommerce goods. It conforms neatly to shapes and gives even coverage. Choose 20mm for heavier, bulkier or higher value items where you want more air per layer, or when you want equivalent protection with fewer wraps.

How many layers of bubble wrap do I need?

For light items, one or two wraps is generally enough. For items in the 1kg to 5kg range, aim for two to three wraps of 10mm. For anything heavy or high value, wrap until there is at least 5cm of cushioning between the item and every wall of the carton.

Do I still need void fill if I have used bubble wrap?

Usually yes. Bubble wrap protects the surface of the item. Void fill stops the wrapped item moving inside the box. They solve two different problems and most well packed fragile parcels use both.

Can I ship fragile items in a satchel instead of a box?

Only for small, low profile items that can tolerate flexing, and even then a padded or bubble lined satchel is the minimum. Anything rigid, anything with a spout or handle, and anything made of glass or ceramic belongs in a carton.

Does writing fragile on the box actually help?

It helps a little as a visual prompt during handling, but it is not protection and it is not insurance. Carriers generally assess damage claims on packaging adequacy. Pack as though no one will read the label.

Not sure which bubble size or carton suits what you ship? Get in touch or call 1800 555 343 and we will work it out with you.